Shoe and method of making the same



p 1 4 v J. D. CHANDLER 2,407,224

' SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME:

Filed Sept. 6, 1945 v I Q 3 0 3' 7 25 ,e lh t James D a -m ler Patented Sept. 10, 1946 SHOE AND METISIOD OF MAKING THE AME James D. Chandler, Swampscott, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. .L, a corporation of New Jersey Application September 6, 1945, Serial No. 614,624

' (o1. 3s1s) 19 Claims. 1

- This invention relates to shoes and methods of making shoes and more particularly to improved methods of making shoes provided with an intermediate or platform sole which is covered at its edge portion with a platform cover or wrapper strip.

In shoes of the type referred to it is the usual practice to stitch an upper, a flexible insole or sock lining and a'platform cover or wrapper strip together while unsupported by a last and then to slip-last the shoe by inserting a last into the upper. The platform sole is then attached and the wrapper strip is turned down wardly over the edge portion of the sole and secured to its outer or bottom surface, after which an outsole is laid and secured to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip, usually by cement.

The above procedure obviously requires accurate cutting and prefitting of the parts. Furthermore, the assembling and stitching of the parts together off a last must be done with considerable skill and care if the shoe is to fit the last properly when the latter is inserted into the upper. This accurate prefitting of the parts and the care that must be taken in assembling and stitching the parts together while off a last usually involve considerable time and expense which add appreciably to the ultimate cost of manufacturing the shoes. Since the shoe is practically completed, except for its sole portion, before the last is inserted into the upper, any errors in the prefitting or assembling of the parts cannot be easily corrected. Moreover, shoes completed, or partially completed, while olf a last do not usually have the smooth, firm and well-shaped appearance that shoes have which have been constructed on a last, that is, shoes that have been pulled-over and lasted to the actual shape of the lastbefore any stitching or other fastening means are employed to secure the upper in lasted position.

An important object of the present invention is to provide an improved method of making platform shoes the practice of which will not require the skill and accuracy usually required in other methods, but which will be relatively simple to carry out and which will also be practicable and economical. Another object of the invention is to provide an improved platform shoe which will have the strength, flexibility and wearing qualities of shoes of this type made by other methods, and which will also have the smooth and wellshaped appearance of a shoe made on a last.

To these ends the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, an improved method of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a reducedmargin and a raised central portion and providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto.-

The upper is secured to the platform sole with the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reducedmargin of the sole. The wrapper strip isthen turned outwardly and downwardly over the edge portion of the sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, after which an outsole is attached to the shoe bottom.

As herein illustrated, the platform sole and upper are assembled together on a last with the marginal portion of the upper turned-outwardly to overlie the reduced margin of the sole. The upper is then secured in lasted relation to the platform sole by stitches, thereby thread-lasting the upper insubstantially the same manner, for

' example, as in making stitch-down shoes, the

, complete the construction of the shoe.

seam preferably being located substantially in the crease formed in the upper where it is turned outwardly to overlie the reduced margin of the platform sole. The upper and wrapper strip are thereafter permanently attached to the platform sole by another seam which, as herein illustrated, passes substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extends diagonally, or at a substantial angle, through the sole. The wrapper strip is turned downwardly along the line of the stitches forming the second seam and then inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole to which surface it is permanently secured, preferably by cement. The outsole is then attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip to If desired, the wrapper strip can be attached to the upper after the upper has been thread-lasted to the platform sole instead of before, the wrapper strip being attached to the upper by the diagonal seam referred to which passes substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the platform sole and attaches the upper and strip permanently to the sole.

In accordance with its article aspect, the invention provides an improved platform shoe which, as herein illustrated, comprises, in combination, an upper, a platform sole having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, the marginal portion of the upper being turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole. A wrapper strip engages the outer surface of the upper and a row of stitches secures the upper to the reduced margin of the sole, another row of stitches securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole, the last-named stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said central portion. The wrapper strip is turned outwardly and downwardly along the line of said last-named stitches and extends inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole to which surface it is secured, preferably by cement, the outsole being attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip. When a wedge heel is utilized in the shoe, the wrapper strip cover the sides of the wedge heel as well as the reduced edge face of the platform sole and it is turned inwardly and secured to the bottom surfaces of the sole and wedge heel, as described above, preferably by cement.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view the invention will now be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawing and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a transverse sectional view of a platform sole, the edge or marginal portion of which has been rabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, the raised central portion having a sock lining with an extended margin secured thereto;

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view of the platform sole after the extended margin of the sock lining has been turned downwardly and secured to the edge face of the raised central portion of the sole;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of an upper having a wrapper strip secured to its outer surface;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary sectional view of the platform sole and upper assembled together on a last and the upper secured in lasted relation to the sole by stitches with th marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 4, showing the upper and wrapper strip permanently secured to the platform sole by another row of stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said portion;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the shoe after the wrapper strip has been turned downwardly over the edge of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, and an outsole has been attached to the shoe bottom to complete the construction of the shoe, and

Fig. 7 is a side elevation of the completed shoe with the toe and heel portions shown in section.

In practicing the method of the present invention, as herein illustrated, a platform sole [0 is provided of relatively thick yielding material, such as felt, cork or similar yielding material, and the edge or marginal portion of the sole is rabbeted, as illustrated in Fig. 1, to provide a reduced margin or flange l2 and a raised central portion I l. The raised central portion M of the sole is covered with a sock lining l6, preferably composed of thin, flexible leather or fabric material which is cemented or otherwise secured to the inner surface of the raised central portion and is larger than said raised portion by an amount substantially equal to the depth of the rabbet formed in the marginal portion of the sole. The portion of the sock lining [3 which extends laterally beyond the raised central portion of the platform sole is turned downwardly and secured 4 to the edge face of the raised central portion of the sole to cover said edge face, as illustrated in Fig. 2.

An upper I8 is provided and also a platform edge covering strip or wrapper 2!] which is secured to the outer surface of the upper adjacent to its lower or lasting margin in any usual or convenient manner, for example, by cement. The lower edge of the wrapper strip 20 is located to coincide substantially with the inner edge of the lasting margin of the upper, as shown in Fig. 3.

The platform sole and the upper are assembled together on a last 22, as illustrated in Fig. 4, with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and. overlying the reduced margin of the sole. The upper is secured in lasted relation to the platform sole by stitches 24 which are preferably located substantially at the crease where the upper is turned outwardly and extend diagonally or at an angle through the upper and the reduced margin of the sole, this operation being commonly referred to as a thread-lasting operation. Preferably, and as illustrated herein, the stitches 24 also pass through the lower edge of the wrapper strip 20, thereby strengthening the attachment of the wrapper strip to the upper, particularly if the strip were originally secured to the upper by cement alone, as mentioned above.

After the upper has been thread lasted as described, the upper and wrapper strip are permanently secured to the platform sole by a row of stitches 26, as illustrated in Fig. 5, the stitches 26, which are preferably lockstitches, passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion I 4 of the platform sole and extending diagonally, or at a substantial angle, through said raised central portion. If desired, the wrapper strip 28 can be attached to the upper after the upper has been thread-lasted to the platform sole instead of before, the wrapper strip being secured to the upper by the diagonal stitches 26 which attach the upper permanently to the platform sole. When this procedure is followed, the wrapper strip may be fed into position against the side of the upper by means of a guide or gage on the machine which inserts the stitches 26.

After the upper and wrapper strip have been permanently secured to the platform sole by the lockstitch seam 26, the out-turned marginal portion of the upper and the reduced margin I2 of the platform sole are trimmed off substantially fiush with the outer surface of the wrapper strip 20, as illustrated in Fig. 5. The wrapper strip is then turned outwardly and downwardly along the line of stitches 28 and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, as illustrated in Fig. 6, the strip being permanently secured to the outer or bottom surface of the sole, preferably by cement. The wrapper strip thus conceals the stitches 2S and the stitches 24 as well as covering the trimmed edge portions of the upper and platform sole. An outsole 28 is attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip by cement or other means to complete the construction of the shoe.

If a wedge heel is desired on the finished shoe, as is usual in platform shoes of this type, the wedge heel is attached to the rear portion of the platform sole after the upper and wrapper strip have been permanently secured to the sole by the seam 26 but before the wrapper strip has been turned downwardly and secured or lasted to the bottom surface of the platform sole. As illustrated in Fig. 7, a wedge heel 30 is positioned on the rear portion of the platform. sole l0 and permanently secured thereto, preferably by cement, after which the Wrapper strip 20 will be turned downwardly and inwardly beneath the bottom surfaces of the Wedge heel and platform sole, the strip being permanently secured to said bottom surfaces by cement, as described above. The full length outsole 2B is then cement-attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip, as shown in Fig. 7, to complete the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by LettersPatent of the United States is: r

1. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a raised central portion and a reduced margin, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together and securing the upper to the sole with the upper .turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, turning the wrapper strip outwardly, downwardly and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole. and attaching an outsole to the shoe. 7

2. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a raised central portion and areduced margin, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last with the marginal portion of the upper turnedrout wardlyand overlying the reduced margin of the sole, securing the upper to the sole in such position, turning the wrapper strip outwardly, downwardly and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole and securing it to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a thick central portion and a relatively thin margin, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together with the margin of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the thin margin of the sole, securing the upper to the platform sole in such position by stitches, turning the wrapper strip downwardly and inwardly beenath the bottom surface of the platform sole. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

4. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, said central portion being covered by a sock lining, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and the upper together on a last, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole With the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by a row of stitches, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly and then inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

5. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a raised central portion and a reduced margin, said central portion being covered with a sock lining, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on'a last with the margin of the upper turned 011 'wardly and overlying the reduced margin. of the sole, securing the upper and wrapper strip to the platform sole by stitches extending diagonally through the sole, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of said stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom sure face of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

6. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a raised central portion and a reduced margin, said central portion being covered by a sock lining cemented thereto, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole with the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches passing through the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said portion, turning the wrapper stripoutwardly and downwardly along the line of said stitches and then inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

'7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its edge portionrabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured to its outer surface and extending upwardly with respect'to the upper, assembling the platform sole and upper together and securing the upper to the sole with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, turning the wrapper strip downwardly over the edge face of said reduced margin and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of th platform sole, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

8. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its marginal portion rabbeted to provide a relatively thin margin and a thicker central portion, said central portion being covered by a sock lining, providing an upper having a, wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole by stitches with the margin of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the thin margin of the sole, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the thick central portion thereof and extending diagonally through said central portion, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of said last-named stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip permanently to said bottom surface, and.

platform sole having its marginal portion rabbeted to provide a laterally extending flange and a raised central port-ion, the central portion being covered by a sock lining cemented thereto, pro- 7 viding an upper having a wrapper strip temporarily secured thereto, assembling the upper and platform sole together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole by stitches with the margin of the upper turned outwardl and overlying said flange, the stitches being located substantially in the crease formed where the upper is turned outwardly, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said central portion, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of the last-named stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole and securing the strip to said bottom surface by cement, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

10. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in ploviding a platform shoe having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, said central portion being covered by a sock lining, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the ,sole, securing the upper and Wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches, trimming the upper and reduced margin of the platform sole substantially flush with the outer surface of the wrapper strip,

turning the wrapper strip over and downwardly along the line of said stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

11. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its marginal portion rabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, the inner surface and edge face of said central portion being covered by a sock lining, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole by stitches with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, said stitches being located substantially in the crease formed where the upper is turned outwardly, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by a seam passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said central portion, trimming the upper and reduced margin of the platform sole substantially flush with the outer surface of the wrapper strip, turning the wrapper strip downwardly along said seam and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the sole and securing it to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the shoe.

12. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its marginal portion rabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, securing a sock lining to said raised central portion, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole with the margin of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending diagonally through said portion, attaching a wedge heel to the platform sole, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of said stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surfaces of the platform sole and wedge heel, securing the strip to said bottom surfaces, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

13. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its edge portion rabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, said central portion being covered by a sock lining overlapping its edge face, providing an upper having a wrapper strip secured thereto adjacent to its lower margin, assembling the platform sole and upper together on a last and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole by stitches with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, said stitches being located substantially in the crease formed in the upper where it is turned outwardly, securing the upper and wrapper strip permanently to the platform sole by stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extending at an angle through said portion, trimming the margins of the upper and platform sole substantially flush with the outer surface of the wrapper strip, securing a wedge heel to the platform sole, turning the wrapper strip downwardly along the line of said stitches andthen inwardly beneath the bottom surfaces of the platform sole and wedge heel, securing the strip to said bottom surfaces, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

14. A shoe having, in combination, an upper, a platform sole having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, a sock lining covering said raised central portion, the margin of the upper being turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole, a wrapper strip engaging the upper, a row of stitches securing the upper to the reduced margin of the platform sole, another row of stitches securing the wrapper strip and upper to the raised central portion of the sole, said wrapper strip being turned downwardly along the line of said lastnamed stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, and an outsole attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

15. A shoe having, in combination, an upper, a platform sole the edge portion of which is rabbeted to provide a reduced margin and a raised central portion, a sock lining covering said raised central portion including its edge face, the marginal portion of said upper being turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole, a wrapper strip engaging the outer surface of the upper, a row of stitches securing the wrapper strip and upper to the reduced margin of the platform sole, a second row of stitches securing the wrapper strip and upper to the raised central portion of the sole, said lastnamed stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the platform sole and extending at an angle through said portion, said wrapper strip being turned outwardly and downwardly along the line of said last-named stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole and being secured to said bottom surface, and an outsole attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

16. A shoe having, in combination, an upper, a platform sole having a rabbeted edge portion providing a reduced margin and a raised central portion, a sock lining covering said raised central portion including its edge face, the margin of said upper being turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the platform sole, a wrapper strip engaging the outer surface of said upper, a row of stitches securing the upper to the reduced margin of the platform sole, said stitches being located substantially in the crease formed where the upper is turned outwardly, a second row of stitches securing the wrapper strip and upper to the raised central portion of the platform sole, said last-named stitches passing substantially through the corner at the inner side of said raised central portion and extending diagonally through said portion, a wedge heel secured to the rear portion of the platform sole, the wrapper strip being turned outwardly and downwardly along the line of said last-named stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surfaces of the platform sole and wedge heel and being secured to said bottom surfaces by cement, and an outsole attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

17. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, assembling the platform sole on a last with an upper, securingthe upper in lasted relation to the platform sole with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, securing the upper permanently to the platform sole by stitches while also attaching a wrapper strip to the outer surface of the upper by said stitches, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of said stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the shoe.

18. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a reduced margin and a raised central portion, assembling the platform sole on a last with an upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole by stitches with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, securing the upper permanently to the platform sole by stitches extending diagonally through the sole while simultaneously attaching a wrapper strip to the upper by said stitches, turning the wrapper strip outwardly and downwardly along the line of th diagonal stitches and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper strip.

19. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having its marginal portion rabbeted to produce a reduced margin and a raised central portion, assembling the platform sole on a last with an upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole by stitches with the marginal portion of the upper turned outwardly and overlying the reduced margin of the sole, said stitches being located substantially in the'crease where the upper is turned outwardly and extending at an angle through the platform sole, securing the upper permanently to the platform sole and simultaneously attaching a wrapper strip to the upper by a single row of stitches which pass substantially through the corner at the inner side of the raised central portion of the sole and extend diagonally through said central portion, trimming the upper and platform sole substantially flush with the outer surface of the wrapper strip, turning the wrapper strip utwardly, downwardly and inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

JAMES D. CHANDLER. 

